Ever dreamt of exploring the mystical land of Bhutan alone? I recently went on a solo trip to this Himalayan kingdom and it was an experience beyond words. From the breathtaking landscapes to the warm hospitality of the locals, Bhutan left an indelible mark on my heart.
Continue reading this blog to read about my personal experience, SDF, rules and regulations, culture of this country and much more!

Table of Contents
How to reach Bhutan from India?
There is a limited connectivity to the two international airports in Bhutan that is Paro and Gelepu. Plus flying in Bhutan is considered a bit risky due to its mountain terrain. Whatever flights are available for Bhutan are extremely expensive. So the best and the cheapest way to reach Bhutan from India is from Bagdogra Airport.
Fastest Way to Reach Bhutan from India
Duration: 3 hours
Cost: INR 25000++
Paro International Airport connects to a few regions in India that is Kolkata, Delhi, etc. However, these flights can cost you more than INR 25,000. Here you can check out flights from Delhi to Paro.
Paro International Airport is one of the world’s most dangerous airports. Due to huge mountains, strong winds, cloud formation in the valley, a steep 45-degree turn to the runway, and so on, it is considered as one of the most challenging airports in the world. Only a fewexperienced and authorised pilots operate here.
The Cheapest Way to Reach Bhutan from India
Duration: 12 hours
Cost: INR 6,000++
Reach Bagdogra Airport- Reach Siliguri bus station- Reach Jaigaon- Share Auto to Bhutan Gate |
Bagdogra is excellently connected to the major cities in India. You can find the flights here. From here, you can choose your mode of transport to reach Silliguri. Cabs and autos are available at the airport itself. Do not forget to negotiate fares. These rides will cost you around 400-500 rupees.
I was traveling solo, so i booked a Rapido ride which costed me Rs 150. This was a great deal for me as the distance between Siliguri and Bagdogra airport is 14 kms.
You can also reach Bagdogra Railway Station (BORA) which is just 5 kms away from the Bagdogra International Airport (IXB). From here, you can catch trains to Siliguri.
If you want to catch the bus on the same day as your flight, make sure you land in Bagdogra early in the morning. Then you can catch this train-
13246 CAPITAL EXP Runs on Friday Saturday Sunday Classes available: Sleeper, 3E, 3 Tier AC, 2 Tier AC, 1st Class Fare: INR 157++ onwards Time: 11:30-12:40 |
You are suppossed to reach Tenzin Norgay Central Bus Terminus in Siliguri. Here you can find local dhabas where you can eat. From here, you can catch a bus to Jaigaon (India-Bhutan border village).
There is only one bus that goes to Jaigaon in a day at 13:15 hours and costs INR 124 per passanger. Remember, this bus is not meant for tourist as this is NBSTC run bus and you will hardly find any facilities. But, if you like to backpack, you can give it a try. This is the only budget-friendly option to reach Jaigaon. As a female solo traveler I never found this unsafe. But, this could be inconvenient for some.
The distance between Siliguri to Jaigaon is 136 kms and takes around 4 hours or more considering road closures and traffic.
Once you reach Jaigaon Bus Station, get a share auto to Bhutan Gate, which should cost you INR 10 per person.
Bhutan Immigration Customs
To enter Bhutan by land, you will need to register which is free of cost. Enter Bhutan from Gate 3, get your luggage scanned and then register at the counter. You will need to show your valid Passport/Aadhar Card/ Voter’s Id. Have an original copy of one of the valid IDs I mentioned.
This lets you travel in Phuentsholing for only 24 hours from the time of registration. Later which you will have to apply for the permit if you want to visit other towns of Bhutan such as Punakha, Haa, Thimphu and Paro. If you are found without permit after these 24 hours of registration, you will be liable for the penalty of INR 6600.
Bhutan Immigration Office is open through weekends, weekdays and all holidays (as per Sept 2024).
SDF charges per person per night- Nu 1200
Documents needed for an Indian for a Permit
- Passport or a voting card.
- A minor without voting card or passport would need original copy of a birth certificate
- Latest passport size photos
- Hotel stay confirmation
- Travel insurance (prefered)
- Thimphu or Paro permit copy (if you are applying for a permit for Punakha or Haa valley)
For Punakha or Haa valley, you will need to apply for a seperate permit from Thimphu or Paro. Thimphu and Paro permit is issued at Phuentsholing Immigration Office.
Beware of this:
While I was registering at the immigration, I came across 4 Indians who were given downloaded voter Id cards from the Indian local. At the immigration, you are supposed to present the original documents. While I could not understand the exact scam taking place there, I understood that the local was paid for these voter ids.
The officer at the counter immideately recognized the downloaded voter IDs and rejected them as well. Remember, never let anyone scare and scam you. Just carry your OG documents and the people there are nice enough to help you out. If they file any complaint about such events, their torusim dept will take serious actions.
General Information of Bhutan

- Official Name: Kingdom of Bhutan
- Nickname: “Land of the Thunder Dragon”
- Capital city: Thimphu
- Currency: Bhutanese Ngultrum= INR
- Unifier of Bhutan: Ngawang Namgyal
- King of Bhutan: His Majesty The Druk Gyalpo Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck
- Government: Constitutional monarchy
- Official Language: Dzongkha
- State Religion: Vajrayana Buddhism
- Famous for: Gross National Happiness (GNH), stunning landscapes, unique culture, and traditional architecture
- Climate: Varies from alpine to temperate to subtropical
- Cuisine: Influenced by Tibetan and Indian traditions, with a focus on red rice, chili peppers, and yak cheese
- Tourism: Highly regulated to preserve cultural heritage and environment
- Unique Practices: Archery, traditional dance, and festivals like Tshechu
- Environmental Focus: One of the few carbon-negative countries in the world
Hiring Guides in Bhutan

It is mandatory for an Indian to hire a guide and a cab if you want to go for sightseeing. The rates are quite high if you are alone. Standard guide rates are INR/nu 3500 per day and for cab, INR/Nu 4500. After the Covid 19 pandemic, many rules about tourism are changed for Indians.
I thought I can go to Bhutan for backpacking and would not need to hire a guide. But I was wrong. Bhutan Govt. likes to offer quality services while maintaining a good balance with nature.
To control the tourist footfall and to offer better services they charge quite heavy SDF and guide, cab are mandatory. If you travel with a group or a family, then these charges get split up! Guide charges are same for one person or for a group. vehicle charges differ on the basis of the size of the group.
Guide Contact: +975 17 25 48 60
A Rough Itinerary

Bhutan Highlights
Places to Visit in Bhutan (Thimphu, Paro, Punakha)
6 Days Itinerary- Starting from Phuentsholing in case of using Bagdogra Airport
Day 1: Phuentsholing- Thimphu
Day 2: Thimphu
Day 3: Thimphu- Punakha- Thimphu
Day 4: Thimphu- Paro
Day 5: Paro
Day 6: Paro- Phuentsholing
4 Days Itinerary- Starting from Paro Airport
Day 1: Paro
Day 2: Paro- Thimphu
Day 3: Thimphu- Punakha- Thimphu
Day 4: Thimphu- Paro
Major Attractions of Bhutan (Thimphu, Paro, Punakha, Haa Valley)
7 Days Itinerary- Starting from Phuentsholing in case of using Bagdogra Airport
Day 1: Phuentsholing- Thimphu
Day 2: Thimphu
Day 3: Thimphu- Punakha- Thimphu
Day 4: Thimphu- Paro
Day 5: Paro
Day 6: Paro- Haa Valley- Paro
Day 7: Paro- Phuentsholing
5 Days Itinerary- Starting from Paro Airport
Day 1: Paro
Day 2: Paro- Thimphu
Day 3: Thimphu- Punakha- Thimphu
Day 4: Thimphu- Paro
Day 5: Paro- Haa Valley- Paro
Offbeat Places in Bhutan
Paro, Thimphu, Haa Valley, Gangtey Valley, Bumthang, Punakha
7 Days Itinerary- Starting from Paro Airport
Day 1: Paro- Haa valley- Paro
Day 2: Paro
Day 3- Paro- Thimphu
Day 3: Thimphu- Gangtey Monastery
Day 4: Gangtey Monastery- Bumthang
Day 5: Bumthang
Day 6: Bumthang- Punakha
Day 7: Punakha- Paro
7 Days Itinerary- Starting from Phuentsholing in case of using Bagdogra Airport
Day 1: Paro- Haa valley- Paro
Day 2: Paro
Day 3- Paro- Thimphu
Day 3: Thimphu- Gangtey Monastery
Day 4: Gangtey Monastery- Bumthang
Day 5: Bumthang
Day 6: Bumthang- Punakha
Day 7: Punakha- Paro
P.S: Ensure you discuss your desired itinerary with your guide to get a proper guidance.
My Personal Experience of Traveling to Bhutan

This is my first solo trip that got messed up becuase of lack of information available online. After pandemic, there are so many changes had taken place in their tourism policy which I was unaware of. I thought this would be a great budget internation trip for me, but I ended up paying much more than I had expected.
So, first I entered Bhutan after a day long journey from Mumbai to Bagdogra to Jaigaon. I had saved a great deal of money in this day. While I was at the immigration office along with 4 other Indians, I saw the officer was scolding at them because they were issuing their downloaded copy of the ID proof.
It’s a bit embarrassing when your fellow citizens are being scolded in another country. Anyways, the next messup was- I had planned to stay in Phuensholing for 2 days, because as per the old information available online, I thought Immigration office remains closed on Saturday and Sunday. But when I entered, the officer told me that I can stay there for free for only 24 hours. After that I have to pay the SDF and hire a guide which is mandatory by the law.
I had reached around 7:30 in the evening and I was needed to take care of everything else from guide to SDF in the next 24 hours. Thankfully I had booked my hotel near the entry gate. I walked up to my hotel, checked in.
The worst part about this day was- this hotel did not have bell person who could carry my luggage. I do not let anyone carry my luggage, but that day I was actually tired and my room was on the second floor and the hotel did not have any elevator. Thankfully I had packed lightly, I could easily drag my bag!
Next day in the morning I went to get my permit to Thimphu and Paro and pay the SDF. There the officer called in a guide who told me that I am suppossed to pay INR 3500 per day for the guide and INR 4500 for the cab per day. I was not prepared for this kind of expense. Honestly at that point I wanted to go back to India.
But i gathered myself and withdrew money, paid them and planned my itinerary. Now, whenever I travel somewhere, I always rest less and roam more. I even visit offbeat places more, but here in Bhutan, I had to limit my exploration to Thimphu and Paro. Ill tell you why!
I had decided to explore Bhutan on my own and travel through public transport. So I had already booked hotels in Thimphu (2 nights), Paro (2 nights) and Phuentsholing (2 nights). All non-refundable! So we had to stick to the stay and plan sightseeing around that.
The main issue was I had to leave for Thimphu on the very day when one more night at this Phuentsholing hotel was due. But the hotel was kind enough to be ready to refund my money back. Other stay modifications I had to do were in Thimphu and Paro, as my stay was preponed in these cities (because, instead of staying in Phuentsholing for 2 days, I stayed one day and left for Thimphu the other day).
Both the hotels agreed for this because it was not a peak tourist season and they could arrange my stay. Otherwise I would need to stay on streets (lol)!
Thimphu Hotel: The BD Hotel Around INR 1500 per night depending on the season.
Paro Hotel: Hotel Khamsum Around INR 2200 per night depending on the season.

My stay at both these hotels was divine. The hospitality, the people, the stay, everything exceeded my expectations. They took care of me as a family. And yes, one thing to mention here is, Bhutan is the first Safest place I felt in my entire traveling experience. No bad gazes, no cheap touches, no faul language. Everyone was so calm, engrossed in their own world, and beautiful.
The route from Phuentsholing to Thimphu was astonishing. The temperature dropped and I could see the most beautiful mountains surrounding from all the sided. The entire area was covered with fogg.


The next day I started exploring Thimphu and my guide gave me every bit of information about their culture, beliefs and history. Exactly what I love to know about the places I travel to. From this day, I just started loving Bhutan and was soaking in the peace it offered.
Honestly as a Mumbaiker, I am always irritated with crowds, loud honking, rush, pace. All that was calmed down in here. I could breathe. I was having cold and cough since a month which was cured in a day in this air. I was happy. No wonder this country is known as the country of happiness.
All the citizens follow Vajrayana Buddhism and mostly do not engage in any violent activity. They are all kind to each other, obedient to the laws and traditional values. My guide told me that they have 4 principles to follow in order to achieve happiness in their lives- “Promotion of sustainable development”, “Preservation and promotion of cultural values”, “conservation of the natural environment”, “Establishment of good governance”.
Here are top 3 things I loved about Bhutan
- Safety: Their law system is very strong and strict that people would think 1000 times before committing any crime. Their religious beliefs are very strong that they belive in bringing peace and calmness in their lives. They live and let live! They also support LGBTQ+ community and treat them indifferently! There are many helplines for citizens where anyone can seek help and can live without worrying about anything.
- Nature & Culture: The landscapes of Bhutan are unbeatable! I always love to see the lifestyle of people who are deeply rooted with their culture and who live close to the nature! Here, men and women both wear their traditional dresses on a daily basis. No descrimination at all! They belive that the woman is a symbol of wisdom and the man is a symbol of knowledge! Without each other, they cannot operate. The importance and balance between the two is nothing new to me as a Hinduism practitioner. But the patriarchy and invasion has messed our roots to the core.
- Carbon-negative country: There is more carbon absorption that the emission. More than 70% of their land is a forest land and deforastration is not allowed. You can actually breate Oxygen here!
There are many places to visit in Thimphu that are chargeable. But my guide did not let me pay for it. He stood there, clicked my picture and told the entire history of these places, but saved me from paying unneccessarily.
If you are in Thimphu, then you must not miss Simply Bhutan Museum. You will get to experience Bhutan’s true essence from culinary aspect to the day-to-day lives of these people!
Paro Taktsang of the Tiger’s Nest Monsatery is one of the best places to visit in Paro. The hike upto this monsatery is worth every penny!




Frequently Asked Questions About Bhutan
What is the best time to visit Bhutan?
The best time to visit Bhutan is during the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) when the weather is pleasant and
there’s no rain or snow.
How much does it cost to visit Bhutan?
Depends on the group size and the duration of your trip! SDF is INR 1200 per person for an indian. Others are supposed to pay $ 100 per person. I paid around INR 65000 for the entire trip including flights as a solo traveler.
Do I need a visa to visit Bhutan?
Most foreign nationals require a visa to visit Bhutan. Indians do not need visa, they need a permit to visit prohibited areas like Thimphu and Paro.
Can I travel to Bhutan independently?
No, independent travel is not allowed in Bhutan. You must book a tour package through a registered tour operator.
Is Bhutan a safe place to visit?
Yes. Bhutan is generally considered a safe country to visit.
What should I wear in Bhutan?
While there is no strict dress code, it’s respectful to dress modestly, especially when visiting religious sites. Wear clothes that cover your arms and legs.
Are there ATMs available in Bhutan to withdraw cash?
Yes, major banks in Bhutan offer ATM services including cash withdrawl, foreign exchange and many other facilities
Does Indian ATM card work in Bhutan ATM?
Yes, international Visa and Mastercards work in Bhutan ATM. But, most businesses including many hotels do not have a facility to accept indian cards or international bank transfers. It is recommended to carry enough cash with you.
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